The Restoration of a Series 2

I migrated from South Australia about 40 years ago and go back to visit regularly. I returned in 1986 and while in Adelaide saw the Bay to Birdwood Rally and thought a vintage car would be a good hobby. Having virtually no knowledge of mechanics I chose an Austin 7 as I could push it around. I eventually acquired a 1927 Roadster and joined the 1988 Bay to Birdwood Rally. 

About two years ago I thought a Morris 8/40 would give me something to do and I acquired a couple of heaps of rust with the hope of eventually building a Series II Roadster. I have found a lot of help and guidance from Lionel Howard but have had to improvise and find parts. The contacts I have made could help other club members although they have probably used / found most of these before.

Axles - My purchase was a Series II with some Series E bits, missing an axle on the II. I improvised by having one E axle cut off and milled to fit the II.
Brakes - The cylinders and lines needed servicing, these were done at Bernie's Brakes in Dandenong. Wheel cylinders were re-sleeved, master cylinder renewed and flexible hoses rebuilt.
Bumper bars - I was missing a rear bumper so I made one from flat steel and had it chromed - looks good.
Chassis - The II chassis needed cleaning. So I removed / chiseled off the dried oil and red Mallee dirt then had it sandblasted by DAF in Moorabbin. A good number of coats of black paint followed.
Chrome - Vinney's of Bennet Street Dandenong did a superb job. You may find someone cheaper but no better.
Doors - Some of the timbers had rotted so I cut out the rotted pieces and spliced in new bits. A pressure pack of 'Space Invader' filled out the gaps. When replacing the doors, I made up plates from ¼" flat steel and placed them inside and outside the frame then bolted the hinges through them - no sagging. Handles were originally made of 'muck metal' so I used one for a pattern and had some cast in bronze, allowing a 15° offset to the shaft to make them sit straight. Once chromed they came up well. The locks came from Roverco, not the correct ones but suitable for my restoration.
Electrics - The wiring was virtually non-existent so I bought rolls of 15 Amp wire, from Autobarn and will make my own loom. I have used 1" diameter plastic tube from front to back to keep the wires together. A friend restored my starter, generator, cutout and petrol pump. The headlights and sidelamps also needed restoring.
Engine - This has been rebuilt so I am expecting no troubles.
Dashboard - I made a dashboard from 20 gauge, powder coated, Zincalume with appropriate strengthening.
Hardware - Where it was essential I found BSF, but generally I have gone to Whitworth. I was fortunate to find some 'special order' round head bolts for the bumpers which save me having to make square holes - they chromed up well.
Hood - I had parts of the hood bows and made up the missing or broken ones. I made up a pattern for the hood from an old sheet which should make it easy for the upholsterer. I will use a local tradesman for this.
Instruments - The units with my purchase have cleaned up well, hopefully they will work when connected.
Metal - A friend, makes up any metal bending I require, I replaced the back panel because of too much rust.
Painting - I decided on a dark red body with black guard colour scheme. To save costs I painted the guards myself (pressure packs with correct preparation) and was pleased with the result. However when the panels came back with two-pack, my job looked poor so I will have to improve the guards. The panels are very good and I think my contact would take on work as long as it is not wanted 'yesterday'. The red is a Ford 'off-the-shelf' colour.
Petrol tank - I think my II was used over paddocks so it was necessary to lift out some dents.
Running boards - These were rather sad, and as I am a poor welder, I cut out the rusted sections, made corresponding fillers then riveted a cover over the patch. I then bogged, sanded and found some 12" wide bullnose stair tread from a local carpet store - the job looks OK.
Radiator - I had a recore done by Fountain Gate Radiators. The braces from the firewall to the radiator were made of from some lengths of ¼" rod with a turn buckle cut in halves on each end. The radiator lacing came from a plaited nylon dog lead.
Seats - I did not have any seats so I made up the frames from bent 20G gal strip, one part shaped as an L with another T piece, riveted together to form a base for the seat squabs. The back of the seats was formed as one piece.
Scuttle timber - I had to shape the scuttle timber with a shaper blade that fits onto my angle grinder this makes the job quite easy.
Side screens - I made these from some flat gal cut and bent, one piece, in an L shape. One side is ¾" wide the other ¼". Another flat piece ¾" wide sandwiches the celluloid between the two metals together and bent the ¼" profile over the other to give a straight edge.
SU carby - Parts were available from a stockist in Waverley Road, close to Warrigal Road.
Steering wheel - I removed the rust and had Redip, of Box Hill South, restore it.
Tyres / wheels - My purchase gave me a mixture of 16" and 17" wheels and I have settled on 16". I had them sandblasted, repaired and painted. I was able to collect a few acceptable 16" tyres and through another club suitable tubes.
Upholstery - I used marine quality vinyl for the seat backs and cut out 3mm MDF for the lining inside the doors, etc. Most of the door linings were either non-existent or rotted out.
Windscreen - I cannibalized a couple of screen frames to make the one required and had glass cut and fitted by Windscreens O'Brien, Dandenong.
Progress - 6 months ago I thought I could finish the car in about 2 weeks, surely. 6 months on I will say the same but it will happen.

Ray Mitchell